Best Treatments for Hyperpigmentation: A Deep Dive

Results of At-Home Extractions

If you are not a trained skin technician, at-home extractions can intensify or cause dark-spot acne scars , also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Popping without proper prepping triggers skin inflammation, a major factor in PIH development, particularly in darker skin tones.

Extracting without the right preparation and aftercare can push bacteria deeper or spread it, elevating PIH risk through increased inflammation. Pimples popped at home can also heal more slowly, prolonging inflammation and intensifying PIH. The inflammation can prompt melanocytes to produce extra melanin, resulting in darkened skin spots and a higher risk of lasting scars.

How Professional Extractions Minimize Risks

When extractions are performed by trained skin technicians during a facial, several measures are taken to mitigate the risks associated with popping pimples and to ensure the process is as safe and beneficial as possible:

• Preparation: The skin is usually prepped using a gentle steam treatment or warm towels. This softens the skin and opens up the pores, making extractions easier and reducing the potential for skin trauma.
• Sterilization: skin technicians use sterilized tools and ensure their hands are clean and often gloved. This reduces the risk of introducing new bacteria into the skin.
• Technique: Professionals use specialized extraction techniques that minimize trauma to the surrounding skin. They’re trained to recognize which blemishes can be safely extracted and which should be left alone.
• Aftercare: Post-extraction, soothing and antibacterial products are applied to calm the skin and minimize the risk of infection. This step also aids in reducing inflammation, which can lead to PIH.
• Guidance: If a blemish is deemed too risky to extract (because it’s too deep, for example), the skin technician  will typically advise against extracting it and might provide advice on alternative treatments.
• Experience: Skin technicians have seen a variety of skin types and conditions. Their experience enables them to gauge the level of pressure to apply and to determine the best extraction methods for each individual.
• Tailored Treatments: Often, facials are tailored to the client’s specific skin type and concerns. A skin technician  can choose products and treatments that not only aid in the extraction process but also help in the healing and prevention of future breakouts.

Here’s what to look for:

• Hydroquinone: An experts-approved skin lightener, hydroquinone works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a role in melanin production. By doing so, it reduces the appearance of dark spots, offering a clearer complexion.
• AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): AHAs are naturally-occurring acids that exfoliate the skin’s surface layers. By promoting cell turnover, they help in bringing newer, less-pigmented skin cells to the surface, thereby lightening dark spots over time.
• Retinol: A derivative of vitamin A, retinol stimulates collagen production and accelerates cell turnover. As a result, it can diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation, revealing a smoother and more even-toned skin.
• Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3, niacinamide helps in reducing the visibility of dark spots by interfering with the process that leads to melanin production. Additionally, it boasts anti-inflammatory properties that further benefit the skin.

While anti-hyperpigmentation skincare products are effective, they yield the best results when used in conjunction with medi spa treatments.

For Regular Hyperpigmentation:

Regular hyperpigmentation refers to mild to moderate dark spots or areas that might arise from sun exposure, minor injuries, or acne.

• Topical Treatments & Chemical Peels: Professional chemical exfoliation results in regenerated skin that is smoother and exhibits diminished hyperpigmentation. Skincare ingredients such as hydroquinone, AHAs, niacinamide, and retinol work by inhibiting melanin production or accelerating skin cell turnover.
• IPL Photofacials: This treatment targets melanin, breaking down the pigment in dark spots. It’s effective for sun-induced freckles and age spots.

For Stubborn or Widespread Hyperpigmentation:

Stubborn hyperpigmentation can arise from prolonged sun exposure, hormonal imbalances (melasma), or more severe instances of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) after skin injuries or acne.

• PicoSure Laser: Especially effective for more widespread or stubborn spots, this laser’s rapid pulse duration helps in breaking down pigment effectively.
• Fractional Laser: This laser is excellent for more persistent pigmentation, encouraging the skin to heal with a reduced appearance of dark spots.
• Professional Chemical Peels: Stronger peels can penetrate deeper into the skin, making them effective for more persistent hyperpigmentation.

For Different Types of Hyperpigmentation:

• Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): This occurs after skin injury or inflammation. Topical treatments, like retinol and AHAs, can help. For more stubborn PIH, consider fractional lasers or professional chemical peels.
• Melasma: Often linked to hormonal changes, melasma presents as brown or gray-brown patches on the face. It requires a multifaceted approach. Topical treatments such as hydroquinone can be beneficial, but PicoSure or fractional laser is very effective, especially for persistent cases.
• Freckles and Age Spots: Caused by sun exposure, these are best treated with IPL photofacials, which target melanin directly. PicoSure laser and chemical peels can also be beneficial.
• Lentigines: Similar to freckles but larger and darker, lentigines can be treated with lasers like the PicoSure or IPL treatments.