If you easily tan like me, you know that your skin changes with the seasons. My skin is a light brown in winter and a deeper shade in the summer. I am also prone to freckles, pigmented acne scars, and uneven skin tone. Understanding how to care for skin like ours is essential for achieving an even and clearer complexion.

Person lying on a facial bed with skin prone to hyperpigmentation

What Is the Fitzpatrick Scale?

The Fitzpatrick scale is a system used to classify skin types based on how the skin reacts to sun exposure. Skin technicians use this to customize treatments for the best outcome. It ranges from Type I (very light skin that always burns) to Type VI (deeply pigmented skin that rarely burns). My skin falls somewhere between a Fitzpatrick III and IV, depending on the time of year.

Being in this Fitzpatrick range means my skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation, especially after acne or injury. This is where the dreaded ‘PIH’ comes into play.

Person with skin that fluctuates with sun exposure seated near mirror

What Is PIH?

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) occurs when the skin darkens after an injury or inflammation, such as acne. It happens because the skin produces excess melanin, the pigment responsible for colour, in response to damage. Your skin does this when wounded (such as when acne forms) as a protective mechanism, increasing melanin to shield the affected area from further harm and UV exposure. However, it leaves behind a dark spot that takes forever to fade. 

For people with a Fitzpatrick range like me, PIH can be particularly stubborn. For example, I recently had a kitten scratch me, and the scar lingered for over six months. So did that spot on my finger that I burned with my flatiron. When I get acne, the scars often turn dark and seem to last forever. PIH is one of the reasons my skin tone is uneven, and managing it is a big part of my skin care routine.

A person with pigmented acne scars

Laser for Acne Scars and Hyperpigmentation

To deal with acne scars and uneven skin tone, I get PicoSure laser treatments a few times a year. 

This picosecond laser uses incredibly fast bursts of energy (pulses) to break up melanin, which is the pigment that causes dark spots on the skin. These pulses are so quick and precise that they shatter the melanin into tiny particles. After the melanin is broken up, the body’s immune system naturally removes these tiny pigment particles over time, which causes the dark spots to fade gradually. 

How long does it take to see results?

I usually start seeing results 2 weeks after the treatment, and it has faded even more a month later.  It works wonders on my PIH acne scars and even helps with overall skin tone. I recommend starting with one a month for 2-3 months to address old scars. After that, I return a few times a year to clear new acne scars and sun damage. 

The Magic of Hydroquinone for Pigmented Spots

The Serum

To maintain the results from my laser treatments, I use a 2% hydroquinone serum. Hydroquinone is a powerful ingredient for helping to lighten dark spots that form when my acne heals. It works by inhibiting melanin production in the skin, helping to fade dark scars and even out skin tone over time. 

The Cream

I follow the serum with a pigment-correcting cream that contains glycerin (in addition to more hydroquinone), which draws moisture into the skin, helping to lock in hydration after applying the serum. The Vitamin E in the cream provides additional antioxidant benefits and supports skin healing. Since I started using these two products, I have noticed a significant improvement in how quickly my acne scars fade. It is a game-changer for anyone dealing with hyperpigmentation.

When To Use Them

I personally prefer using my hydroquinone products at night to let them work their magic uninhibited by other products. 

 

Don’t Use Hydroquinone All Year

I recommend taking a break after using hydroquinone for 2-3 months as it is a potent ingredient, and you do not want to compromise the resilience of your skin barrier. This could lead to sensitivity or other side effects. During this time, I use a milder cream with resorcinol and arbutin, which are gentler ingredients for brightening hyperpigmentation. 

person with green eyes and freckles who knos how to prevent hyperpigmentatiion

Results of PicoSure laser treatments.

Sun Protection for Hyperpigmentation-Prone Skin

Since I am prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and acne, using SPF is a non-negotiable part of my daily routine. I have learned the hard way that sun exposure only makes dark spots worse and prolongs the time it takes for my skin to heal. 

To prevent my acne scars from sticking around even longer, I always make sure to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Plus, I look for a formula that is non-comedogenic so it does not clog my pores or irritate my already sensitive skin. 

My New Favourite SPF

If you’re reading this, you probably know the never-ending struggle of using foundation to cover acne scars, only to have it clog your pores and make things worse. Switching to a tinted SPF with great coverage was a total game-changer for me, and it simplified my routine!

 

Polyamine Ointment for Wound Healing and Scar Reduction

For other scars or wounds on my body, I rely on a polyamine repair gel by Vivier. This product contains both polyamine and silicone, which help repair damaged skin and reduce healing time. It forms a protective barrier while nourishing the skin with ingredients which soothe and hydrate. I have found that using V-Stat significantly reduces the chances of a scar lasting for months.

This gel has been a lifesaver for healing minor cuts and preventing long-term pigmentation from setting in.

person with green eyes and freckles who knos how to prevent hyperpigmentatiion

Facials to Support My Efforts

Although I get a few laser treatments a year to break up pigmented spots and keep my skin clear, I definitely notice that my skin is happier when I don’t skip my monthly facial. Whether it’s a chemical peel, a Vitamin C booster, or an exfoliating dermaplaning treatment, my at-home products absorb so much better after a layer of dead skin cells have been removed. Plus, professional extractions are another way to diminish future PIH scars. 

Skin memberships help me save on these and keep me on track.

"Facials for glowing skin"

Managing Hyperpigmentation and PIH

Hyperpigmentation and PIH are challenges that many with fluctuating skin tone, like me, face. Learning how to care for your skin with the right treatments and routine can make all the difference. By understanding your Fitzpatrick skin type and how it affects your response to sun exposure and injury, you can tailor your skincare routine to address specific concerns like PIH. 

The journey to clear, glowing skin is a marathon, not a sprint. But with the right approach, it is definitely achievable.